Diagram Wave Prediction for Deep Water Conditions

Shown are the results of the wave prediction procedure for deep water conditions according to Shore Protection Manual (SPM) for the set parameters.

The dimensionless variables used are therefore calculated as follows: \( \tilde{x} = \frac{g \cdot x}{{U_A}^2} \), \( \tilde{H} = \frac{g \cdot H_s}{{U_A}^2} \), \( \tilde{T_p} = \frac{g \cdot T_p}{U_A} \), \( \tilde{t} = \frac{g \cdot t}{U_A} \), with acceleration due to gravity \( g = 9.81 \frac{m}{s^2} \).

For fetch limited sea states: \( \tilde{H} = 1.6 \cdot 10^{-3} \cdot \tilde{x}^{1/2} \), \( \tilde{T_p} = 0.2857 \cdot \tilde{x}^{1/3} \), \( \tilde{t} = 6.88 \cdot 10^{1} \cdot \tilde{x}^{2/3} \).
For duration limited sea states, a dimensionless replacement fetch is calculated according to \( \tilde{x} = 1.752 \cdot 10^{-3} \cdot \tilde{t}^{3/2} \).
The limit values for fully arisen sea states are \( \tilde{H}_{max} = 0.2433 \), \( \tilde{T_p}_{,max} = 8.134 \), \( \tilde{t}_{max} = 71500 \).

Lernplattform des Leichtweiß-Institut für Wasserbau

There is a duration limited sea state

  Significant wave height H_s = 0
  Peak period T_p = 0
  Minimum duration t_required = 0
  t_present > t_required

~ x = 0
~ H = 0 > ~ H_max = 0.2433!
~ T_P = 0 > ~ T_{p, max} = 8.134!
~ t = 0 > ~ t_max = 71500!

~ x_new = 0
~ H_new = 0
~ T_p,new = 0
~ t_new = 0
(Replacement Fetch F_new = 0 km)

Illustration taken from: EAK 2002, Empfehlungen für
Küstenschutzwerke, Korrigierte Ausgabe 2007 des Kuratoriums
für Forschung im Küsteningenieurwesen
(published in: Die Küste, Booklet 65, 2002)

The field of Sea State is part of the module Basic Coastal Engineering within the specialization Coastal and Ocean Engineering of the master programmes Civil and Environmental Engineering.