The displayed wave profiles are calculated according to the linear wave theory of Airy/Laplace.
Therefore, the water surface elevation follows the equation η(x,t)=H2⋅cos(k⋅x−ω⋅t).
The wave energy is calculated as E=18⋅ρw⋅g⋅H2, while the coefficients presented are as follows: Kr=HrHi, Kt=HtHi, Kd=HdHi. Furthermore: Sea water density ρw=1025kgm3, as well as acceleration due to gravity g=9.81ms2.
Since the wave energy of the incoming wave is maintained according to Ei=Er+Et+Ed, follows: Kr2+Kt2+Kd2=1.
The field of Wave Transformation is part of the module Basic Coastal Engineering within the specialization Coastal and Ocean Engineering of the master programmes Civil and Environmental Engineering.