The displayed wave profiles are calculated according to the linear wave theory of Airy/Laplace.
Therefore, the water surface elevation follows the equation \( \eta (x,t) = \frac{H}{2} \cdot \cos(k \cdot x - \omega \cdot t)\), with \( k = \frac{2 \cdot \pi}{L} \) and \( \omega = \frac{2 \cdot \pi}{T} \).
The field of Wave Theories is part of the module Basic Coastal Engineering within the specialization Coastal and Ocean Engineering of the master programmes Civil and Environmental Engineering.